A lactic goat’s milk cheese: flavours of bright acidity and grass, lengthening with maturity; there is a perceptible spice from the Geotrichum moulds on the ashed rind. Textures are dense, ganache-like and coat the mouth.

Innes Log is made by Joe Bennett in Staffordshire from the raw milk of his own goats. Its delicate rind takes its light-grey colour from the vegetable ash that is sprinkled on when the cheese is very young and brings with it a slightly yeasty, toasted flavour. Sometimes white and light-green Penicillium moulds may dot the rind, adding a bit of pepperiness. It is one of our most savoury goat’s cheeses, with a mellow, rounded flavour and a dense and silky texture.

The Innes Log is matured in London and is exclusive to Neal’s Yard Dairy.